Thursday, August 21, 2008

Welcome to the Brivdabas Open-Air Museum in Riga! I will be your most cutest guide for the day.

Our guide met up with us when we were peaking into the insides of some 19th century Latvian houses at the Brivdabas Open-Air Museum. She expertly led the way and took us to see some traditional fishing villages:
...with their fishing boats:
...the birch branches outside the sauna (which is my new place to hang out since you can lose a lot of weight by just sitting there):

...the spooky apple orchard:
...and the usual windmill-in-garden set-up:
She even walked us back to the bus stop whereupon after we sat ourselves on the bench, she ran away, and I got sad, but remedied this by forcing the Hubs to look at the several photos I took of her over and over again.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Riga: A splash of Art Nouveau, a dash of medieval and gothic, a block of Occupation Museum

We arrived in Riga last night via five-hour-bus-ride from Tallinn, which was relatively painless thanks to some Ricky Gervais podcasts and lovely transitional scenery from Estonia to Latvia, which included the odd giant chair in a field of crops. Wish I could've captured a photo for you, but buses actually move pretty fast unless you're driving behind them. 


Now we're chilling in Riga, where we've enjoyed some crazy-ass architectural surprises (did you know Riga has the largest collection of Art Nouveau buildings in Europe?) and visited our second (the first was in Estonia) Occupation Museum, which documents the occupation of Latvia  for more than fifty years by the Soviets, Nazis, and then the Soviets again. 
It was one of the most informative and chilling museums I've visited since I learned in detail about the fate of the Baltic states during and after the world wars, and because the description of the gulags and more specifically the single-spaced, page-long description of a tank that prisoners were made to use as a toilet and which the guards would also use to carry the prisoners' drinking water -- well, you get the picture. The experience stays with you. 

Sorry for being a fun-suck. We'll be here for a few more days, on the hunt for blue cows, chess, and saunas. Here's a sax player taking a break from his constant "Are You Lonesome Tonight" loop in front of the St. Roland Statue. Also pictured: Town Hall, Dome Cathedral, and House of Blackheads. Not pictured: the seemingly ubiquitous free wireless connection everywhere in the Baltics! 

Sunday, August 17, 2008

The Legend of Old Thomas: "It was the time of the parrot shooting contests..."

Old Thomas is the medieval symbol and guardian of Tallinn, where according to the legend, as a poor boy, he'd won a parrot shooting contest and as a result, he was chosen to guard the city which he did very well into his old age. Here is his likeness which was placed on the city tower's weathervane in the 16th century:


Tallinn's architectural details and frustrating weather

While the sights have been nice, the weather has been full-on craptastic, with rain everyday. But today, we got a slightly warmer, balmy front with fog in the morning and then a crack of sun in the afternoon. Makes for an interesting (but not that interesting) four-seasons-in-one-day type of experience. 

Tower in the mist -- this was once the tallest structure in the world (like, eight hundred years ago).
They've got an Alexander Nevski cathedral, too. We have one in Sofia.
Pretty door (above), and door fixture (below).
I love this man's tufts of hair and gesticulating hand. And the fact that he's coming out of a building.
How does one get into the building (below)?

Hot chocolate, chocolate cake and marzipan: the biggest sugar rush of our lives

Chocolate cake like gunboats.
Cafe culture is big here. And even bigger are the size and variety of hot chocolates offered. We sampled some after we visited the marzipan museum (seriously), where we got our first taste of diabetes.

A Tiny Confession: Tallinn has a Tex-Mex restaurant

In our defense, Sofia doesn't have a Mexican restaurant and we're always starved for some variety and it's not like we haven't been eating the local cuisine and the Texas Honky Tonk Cantina got really good reviews in the "Lonely Planet," so can we really be blamed for wanting to sample some Tex-Mex since it's practically down the street from the hotel? Anyone?

Tallinn: So unbelievably charming, I'm about to put some Estonians in a jar and take them home with me

Quick -- tell me what you know about Estonia. I'll tell you what I knew before coming here: Kazaa and Skype were started here, supermodel Carmen Kass is Estonian, which kind of checks my interest box, and as it turns out she's an avid chess player, which really checks the interest box for the Hubs if you know what I mean. Well, after a day and a half here, please allow me to gush that the Estonians are not only very attractive, but charming and friendly. Tallinn itself is more reminiscent of a central European city like Prague than an eastern European city -- a fact which probably makes the Estonians proud, since they have a history of being occupied by others including the Nazis and Soviets. (Can you tell who went to the local history museum?) In addition to the charming local flavor, they have free wifi everywhere, so we can keep up with the Olympic medal count!

Here's Carl tucked away in a medieval corner.
And the Hubs under some medieval supports:
One of many cute doorways in Tallinn, where they are unafraid to pair blue and green together:

Friday, August 15, 2008

please

On the hunt for cloudberries we also found...

...a Finnish reindeer! You do know Santa's from Lapland, right?
...the lovable Moomin characters! Hippopotamus-like trolls have never been so cute (it's the one on the left, btw).
...salmon steaks at the market square near the harbor!
...Finnish design company Marimekko!
...naked metal-smithers!
...the knife holder you've been looking for all these years!
...millions of slouchy stuffed reindeer dressed in Finland tees!

...berries galore (looks like we're getting closer)!
Eureka! The elusive cloudberry is made into jams, cheese and juices in Finland. Our search is over. 

Tomorrow: boat to Tallinn!

Temppeliaukio Church: A Lutheran church that rocks

It's hewn of rock and a popular site for concerts because of it's awesome acoustics (due to the copper dome ceiling). 

Protestant Church: It's been a while.

Ever since moving to eastern Europe, we've visited mostly Eastern Orthodox churches and mosques. This was our first time visiting a Protestant church in over a year. I can't believe I just posted about this.

A Finn Party

These girls were just quietly reading and wearing birthday hats in the park. I love it here. We totally bagged our plan to visit Porvoo and Suomenlinna in favor of just strolling around the city. Never has H&M seemed so glamorous, but does anyone else have the problem where they don't have any of the sizes you're looking for? No biggie, though. We're just healing our souls after the stress of traveling in Russia.

Fun at Helsinki's KIASMA museum of contemporary art -- there's a halfpipe in back for skaters

How much do I love contemporary art museums? You don't really have to think too much -- sometimes it really is just spilled paint:Other times, there's the twisty bench:

The very large postcard:
And interactive art (my favorite):

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Finland: Free wireless, free water, the free west

After a five hour train ride, we arrived in Helsinki this afternoon from St. Petersburg. We were trying to think of other border crossings that could be more drastic than Finland and Russia (California and Mexico comes to mind, as does Earth and Mars). All of a sudden, people are smiling and relaxed and not drunk (yet). There's a Ben and Jerry's here, too. It was exciting and fascinating to visit Russia, but after a while, the exorbitant prices ($50 for a plate of cold cuts), the epic distances between everything, and helplessly standing by while a thief ripped a cellphone away from a woman on the metro -- it all sort of conspired to exhaust us. I think we need some time to process our experience. Luckily, we're in Helsinki, where we can process our Russia experience with little-to-no stress, as we stroll through the museums and markets, and contemplate our list of most shocking observations about Russia (safe to expect in the top five: the attractiveness of women and random, blown-up photos of cats in the metro stations).

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Details from Moscow's metro stations

Moscow's amazing art and design in the underground stations -- this is "Peace": 
Chekhovskaya -- the station named for Chekhov:
Atom light fixtures:
Stained glass art portraying the worker:


Kvas: So mild a child can drink it.

Meet kvas, a drink brewed from rye bread which has such low alcohol content that children (and I) can drink it. It tastes like fruity ice tea. Doesn't seem dangerous.

The overnight train from St. Petersburg to Moscow

The St. Petersburg train station waiting room with the bust of Peter the Great (above) and the Moscow waiting room with the bust of Lenin (below). Whenever you arrive at a train station, the city's old-timey anthem plays over the loudspeakers.
The soviet era trains:
The "Red Arrow" train -- our sleeper car! 

A very good idea.

Obviously I had to buy this postcard of an 1930s Russian public service poster. Each of us has a theory about what is going on in this image. You decide.


Is the woman above:
a) cleaning her nipples daily with cold water because that promotes cleanliness?
b) milking herself and then dipping bread into the milk to eat it and thereby promoting recycling?
c) about to perform the gentlest of self breast exams with a cotton puff?
d) [your own theory or if you know Russian, please tell us what's going on]

Inside the Kremlin: Awesome! Memorable! Sort of cold and expensive!

We just returned from Moscow, where we got to live out all our Red Square dreams (see photo below). As you can see, Carl, Eli and the Hubs couldn't contain their excitement. It was a whirlwind two days, which we spent touring the Kremlin and, in general, soaking in Moscow. There's a lot to soak in. First, there was the rain. But then there was the actual stuff -- like St. Basil's Cathedral and Red Square. Then there were the surprises, like the fantastic mosaics and art in the subway stations, the hip eateries and access to authentic (really!) Chinese food, and the rare Russian smile. 
A rally led by folks who preferred life under communism:
Lenin's tomb, which we did not have a chance to see because the line was ridiculously long and you know how I feel about long lines:

We're back in St. Petersburg now, just chilling out. My feet are beyond busted thanks to the mile-long Russian blocks -- how the Russian women walk confidently in five inch heels on the cobblestones, I will never know. They must put something in the belinis.

Tomorrow morning -- Helsinki!

Saturday, August 09, 2008

Gotta keep moving (and by the way, don't think about walking your rocking horse in the park).

We're hopping an overnight train to Moscow in about an hour, so I won't be posting for a few days, but I'll be back soon to post photos from Akhmatova's house, the Peterhof Palace, and in general, the beauty of the streets and unending daylight in St. Pete. Until then, don't get wasted, don't litter, don't walk your rocking horse, or ride your bike in the park.


On the way to the train: Gin in a can

This gin and tonic in a can is one of the fun drinks. They start drinking pretty early in the day around here. So far, it's one of the few things I've noticed that puts a smile on their faces.

Here's Carl! Sorry about the fuzzy photo, but he was trying to help me capture the fierce woman behind him with the purple suede sling backs. It's true what they say about Russian women, by the way: they are beautiful! 
St. Pete's trains:
The train stations and train cars have diner lighting (you know, when you lurch into a '50s diner at 3 am?), though I don't think it's on purpose. 

Scenes from the Official Venice of the North

Walking along this canal was great for watching the Russian girls posing for photos. Never have I seen so many diaphanous scarves and hairbrushes whipped out while walking on the street or on scenic bridges in preparation for shots.
Kazan Cathedral (and the hood of a souped-up socialist car).

Rastrelli Arch and two FINE gentlemen.
The Savior of the Spilled Blood (and two FINE gentlemen).

This woman's legs start at my neck.

So that if I were to run into her, my nose would get lodged in her bellybutton. Thought you should know.

Friday, August 08, 2008

The Room where I almost lost the Hubs

Naturally, I wandered like a child into this room with the confectionary colors and frosting-like fixtures. It was a sweet, wonderful room where nothing bad could happen, except when I looked around, the Hubs was gone. I backtracked and could not find him. Then I started freaking out because around every corner, there were about twenty more rooms. Finally, I sent Eli to look for the Hubs, while I planted myself in the same spot, having learned from the episode of "Arrested Development" where Anne was left behind in Mexico that it was smartest to "plant" oneself on a bench, which I hoped the Hubs would also be able to remember when the panic set in.

Turns out, I didn't have to worry. A few minutes later, Eli returned with a grinning Hubs who said, "Some Russian girls tried to pick me up!" Meanwhile, an old Chinese man with a missing a tooth leered at me. Here's some Matisse:This is a gold peacock clock. Very famous.Overheard often at the Hermitage: "Look, honey, another gold room."Some drama:
Funneling has existed for centuries.Lovely lady:
Bust by Rodin:

The Hermitage: Our Greatest Performance Ever

Here we are, stretching out for a day at the Hermitage Museum, where we spent six hours on our feet. Of course, two of those six hours were IN LINE. But then, had we not stood in the WRONG LINE for about thirty minutes we might have had a little more energy while standing in the real line. Also, my feet, which now look like a ballerina's busted feet, started blistering fifty meters into our trek to the museum. But it was all worth it to see this much sea foam and gold:

In the bottom right-hand corner you can see the beginning of the fake line, which we stood in for a while. But here we have the Eli and the Hubs reacting to the real line which was located behind the Hermitage and which stretched about 800 meters from the actual entrance.
Still in line.

By the way did I tell you it was FREE TICKET DAY(?!) at the Hermitage? And yet, we were made to stand in line. Funny, that.

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

St. Petersburg: A warm, pickled welcome!

We made it! Can you believe it? On the way from Prague to St. Pete, a cute Russian ballerina/model type girl sat next to me on the plane just so I'd get a taste of what it would feel like to finally be among Russians in their own country. So far, it's been awesome but in large part due to seeing Carl and Eli again (photos to come) and also reconnecting with Carl's cool friends Pete and Emma (hey, they gotta be cool if they indulged in my Chinese food cravings). Now, on to some sights and sounds!
Nearby Carl's place stands this monument to Anna Akhmatova, the Russian poet, whose house and museum we plan on visiting while we're here. You can read some of her translated poems here.
Amid all the big boulevards and pastel buildings, this item is for sale at a local liquor store: a rifle designed specifically to shoot vodka. Oh! Speaking of, we visited a grocery store where the vodka and herring aisles were really something to behold. You're just going to have to trust me, since I was too chicken to take a photo (I've been hurt before).  


Tomorrow -- the Hermitage Museum!

Tuesday, August 05, 2008

Packing, blogging, and basic functions -- nearly impossible when trying to watch the entire first season of "The Wire" before leaving for Russia

In case you couldn't tell by the jacked-up font sizes from the last couple posts, things have changed around here, both technically and drama-series-wise. We're still going to Russia in about four hours. But this fact has become infinitely harder to plan for ever since someone -- devil or angel remains to be seen -- introduced us to the crime series "The Wire." We're desperately trying to watch all of season one before we leave. I don't know if it's because it's Baltimore or Omar, but that show is genius. Anyhow, I haven't been paying close attention to what's been thrown into my suitcase, because I need to know if Bubs stays clean, but a couple things are for sure: I'm bringing along my new travel-blogging/sarcasm-espousing-tool (above) and you can guess which of these two books I'm bringing with me: 

It used to be that I could be counted on to bring the most boring book with me on vacation. There was Chekhov in Oahu, Hawthorne in Paris, and Tolstoy in Bangkok. I'd crack open a bonafied classic on the beach but after a page, I'd be bugging Ces or the Hubs about what they were reading. And, of course, they were always reading something way more interesting like the Girl's Guide to Hunting and Fishing or some King Arthur trilogy. Enough with the Moby Dick. I will be reading the pink book.

Also, please remain patient with me as I learn the crazy world that is Apple. I apologize for weird font and spacing issues. It's clearly more power and style than I can handle. See you in St. Petersburg!